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Hochob : Campeche

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Hochob once covered a large area but, as at Edzna, only the hilltop ceremonial centre (the usual Plaza surrounded by elaborately decorated temple buildings) has been properly excavated; although many of these are mounds of rubble, the site is perfect for contemplating deserted, yet accessible Maya ruins in solitude and silence. The one-room temple to the right (north) of the plaza is the most famous structure: deep-relief patterns of stylized snakes moulded in stucco across its facade were designed to resemble a mask of the ferocious rain god Chac. A door serves as the mouth. Some concentration is needed to sec this due to erosion of the carvings. A fine reconstruction of the building is on display at the Museo de Antropologi’a in Mexico City. Early-morning second-class buses serve Dzibalchen, but, as always, returning to Campeche later in the day is often a matter of luck.

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